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 06-02-2001, 11:45 Post: 28884
Jeff Jump



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 Box Blade use

I just purchased a Yanmar 20hp tractor with loader and backhoe, to landscape/maintain 6 acres. I'm purchasing a 5' box blade today, to help cut in 400' road and level building site. Question is should I use scarifiers to break up ground and level with loader bucket or use box blade for everything??? Thanks......






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 06-02-2001, 13:32 Post: 28887
jb85302



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 Box Blade use

When I did the leveling on my place I used a box blade, with the scarifiers first then turned them over and used it with-out. The thing is most people are not real good with a box blade(slight up and down of the land makes for large smooth bumps after box-blading). Adjusting your top link to make the blade riding on the back edge helps when finish-blading. BTW I am one of those people that ain't so good with a box-blade. Now a question for you, what model tractor is it exactly and what size/brand of hoe is on it.
Jeff






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 06-02-2001, 15:15 Post: 28891
Jeff Jump



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 Box Blade use

Thanks JB. Just got back with my new box scraper. The tractor is a Yanmar 1610D with Allied 95 loader/4' bucket and Handlers backhoe (3pt attachment). The hoe is Canadian, made in Abbotsford, BC, I think. I bought it mainly for trenching and digging. I've included a link. The hoe seems awful sensitive, hard to feather, but probably just a matter of experience/muscle memory. Tractor had 500 hrs on it when I got it. It's rated at about 20 - 22 hp depending on which spec sheet you look at, and is like new. Have about 6 hrs so far on tractor cutting my driveway in and couldn't be happier with my purchase. Soon as I get the hang of the implements I should be able to shape the world!!






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 06-03-2001, 08:06 Post: 28916
TomG

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I have much better luck grading with a box than a loader. However, I do backdrag with the loader a fair bit. To spread material, the bucket is angled down and floated. For compacting, the bucket is fairly flat and downpressure is held--a little sharper bucket angle will cut some as well. I really don't like to use the loader to cut while going forward. If I do, I float the bucket and try to control the depth of cut with the curl. However, I go slow and not far because I'm aware that hitting a rock can damage the loader. To use a box, the idea is to use the blade angle to adjust between cutting and spreading action on a particular surface. Shortening the top-link increases cutting. Scarifiers are used if the surface is such that the blade won't cut sufficiently. If the blade angle is right, a box can be floated on the 3ph and pulled the length of a drive. The box picks up a little material but spreads it in potholes so there's not much material in the box at the end of a pass. Of course, things aren't quite so simple. Sizable dips have to be filled or the box will simple follow the dip. I sometimes use the rear cutter like a dozer to cut high spots into low ones. In addition, the 3ph may have to be lifted at the bottom of a hill. The incidence of the blade changes as the box starts up a hill, and boxes tend to gouge at the bottom of a hill. Loaders do too, for that matter. Anyway, a box works real well for me--especially since the side leveler can be used to cut crowns. Side grades can be maintained, but not cut easily with a loader. However, I do adjust the top-link very frequently and often on the fly. I have a hydraulic top-link to make the adjustments. If I didn’t have a hydraulic top-link, I might find the loader more useful for grading.






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 06-03-2001, 23:11 Post: 28931
jb85302



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 Box Blade use

Jeff, it sounds like you have a pretty nice machine. Thanks for the link.
Good luck and happy Blading.
Jeff






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 06-04-2001, 00:30 Post: 28932
Jeff Jump



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 Box Blade use

Thanks all for the info. I really appreciate it........Jeff






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 06-08-2001, 09:32 Post: 29053
FarmerWannabe



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 Box Blade use

I think I finally figured out how to float my loader. Is there a trick to floating the 3ph? (I do not have a hydraulic top link although it sounds like maybe I should!)
Thanks.






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 06-08-2001, 12:20 Post: 29059
TomG

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Most 3ph's on newer compacts have position control. Draft control options often are available. With position control, the 3ph lever sets how low an implement will go. However, 3ph's always can float upward. There is little that holds a 3ph down, and few have hydraulic down-pressure. In fact, down-pressure wouldn’t be desirable for a ground engaging implement, because it would reduce traction. Usually when somebody mentions 'floating the 3ph' they mean the lever is depressed some after an implement contacts the ground. The float allows an implement to follow the ground into dips, and it won't lift the implement when the front tractor wheels go over a hill. Draft control senses the load on the 3ph and automatically applies lift in response to increases in load.






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 06-08-2001, 19:27 Post: 29085
Jeff Jump



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 Box Blade use

About the hydraulic top link, is this something I would have to fab up myself or are kits sold somewhere?? If I need to fab it, where is the best place for parts?? I have Northern Tool catalogue and they have a few things but I assume there are other places (besides local dealers) to shop mail order. Also, is it common to adjust one side link longer or shorter than the other in order to tilt one side of the blade (box scraper) say to put a crown in the middle of a driveway??






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 06-11-2001, 10:27 Post: 29145
TomG

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For a hydraulic top-link, the duty rating of the cylinder and ends, the length of the cylinder, rod travel and hose lengths are important issues. The cylinder also must have ends the fit the top-link pins. My top-link came as part of my 3ph fork lift. It operates the carriage tilt. I think that if you had specs, the parts could be ordered from Northern. I also think that ready-made kits are commercially available, or most dealers could make one up. Mine has extra long hoses, because I only have one rear hydraulic circuit. When I use the fork lift, the rear circuit is taken for the carriage lift and I have to steal the loader bucket circuit for the top-link. The hoses have to run to the loader SCV. I will improve this arrangement sometime. Regarding crowning drives: Using the side leveler is the way I do it. In fact, that's the only way I know of to cut a different side angle than the one the tractor sits on, except for fancy rear blades. Of course, once a side-grade is cut, a level implement or a loader will maintain the crown.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Projects Forum

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