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 03-27-2001, 20:00 Post: 25978
Bubu



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I recently purchased a single bottom plow. Can someone tell me the proper way to hook it up to my tractor. Thanks






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 03-28-2001, 06:10 Post: 25990
Paul Fox



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Assuming it's a three-point plow (you didn't say, but they are the most common these days) there are a couple of things to pay attention to. First, the plow has to trail off-center to the right, and/or the right wheel has to be moved in. If the plow has a 14" cut, then with the right wheel in the previous furrow, the landside of the plow (the flat plate on the inside of the plowshare that rides in the bottom of the furrow) should be 14" inside the right rear tire. This can be adjusted by moving the beam of the plow around on the mount that the hitch hooks to, and/or by adjusting the sway chains on the hitch to hold the plow in the proper position. Second, the angle of the plow from the horizontal has to be adjusted. If you plan on plowing to a depth of six inches, then jack the LEFT side of the tractor up and block the tire so it is six inches off the ground. This simulates the right tire being in a 6 inch deep furrow. Then, adjust the arms on the hitch so the plow sits flat and level with the tractor tilted. Finally, the fore-and-aft tilt of the plow needs to be adjusted to the proper "angle of attack" so it will pull itself into the ground. This is done by adjusting the top link in or out. Typically, the point of the plow should point slightly down, but you'll have to adjust this by trial and error. If the plow won't dig in, or tries to float up out of the ground, shorten the top link to tip the plow a bit more forward. If it digs too much and bogs the tractor down, lengthen the top link. That should get you started. Biggest thing (and hardest to do) is getting the first step, setting the width of cut. If you have a compact with non adjustable wheels, it can be a real PITA, and may even be impossible. Also, once you get it set up, adjust your sway chains or stabilizer bars to keep it from wallowing around. You'll know when you get it right, you'll get a nice consistent furrow that rolls completely upside down, and is straight. Good luck.






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 03-28-2001, 08:06 Post: 25995
TomG

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I'll probably never have a mold-board plow, but I sure found Paul's description interesting reading. I wonder if my cousins know all that when they started plowing as kids, or whether my uncles set it all up for them and just pointed out the fields.






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 03-28-2001, 14:18 Post: 26011
Alan L. Lewis



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Wow I was planning on getting a single bottom plow, but I think I'll go for the tiller - I think I can figure out how to use it.






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 03-28-2001, 14:46 Post: 26017
Bird Senter

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Paul Fox, that's a very good description of the way to do it. And like you said, it may be impossible to get it adjusted just right side to side. I have an antique moldboard that was a horse drawn plow that someone did a little cutting and welding on and made it a 3-point plow. It's tough enough that I've not been able to break it, and I can tear up the ground with it, but there's no way to move or adjust it far enough to the right for it to work properly. So, anyone considering buying one should either be sure it's right for your tractor, or else buy one that has the plow mounted on a toolbar with an adjustment, side to side.






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 03-28-2001, 16:46 Post: 26020
kay



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Paul's description was very good, especially the part where you lift the LEFT wheel to the depth you think you will plow, then set the plow flush to the ground. The draft control enters into the formula (if the tractor has one) such that if the plow starts to get too deep, the draft linkage will lift on the 3 pt enough to decrease the compression force on the top arm. There are usually different holes on the tractor end to put the top arm, depending on the sensitivity that is desired.
Additionally, on my Dearborn single bottom plow, there is an adjustable cross arm between the two 3 pt attaching points, that can be rotated to allow the plow to move left or right, thus adding to the adjustment for getting the plow to track (trail) correctly behind the tractor. Forcing a plow to follow a path it does not want to follow (such as fixing the chains on the 3 pt arms) may mean the operator will have to ride a brake to stay in the furrow. Also, the adjustment for opening the first furrow is different from the subsequent adjustment when plowing with the right tractor wheel in the furrow. Getting a worn-out plow (don't know if this is the case, and don't want to imply such) to go into the ground is difficult, no matter what the adjustments, so make sure the plow is in good shape (no rusty moldboard, sharp shares). If in sandy soil, a rusty moldboard may not be a problem, but in heavy clay, one will not go far with any rust on the plow). Its a fun attachment to get working properly. Let us know how it goes.






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 03-29-2001, 05:52 Post: 26041
Paul Fox



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Good points, kay. I can hog mine over with the sway chains, and still have it pull in a straight line. If the plow is not parallel with the line of draft (which for all intents and purposes is the centerline of the tractor) you WILL get side draft. Also, I decided not to confuse the issue too much by discussing the setup for opening up a field or "striking out lands" as my Dad called it. The procedure for setting up a 3 point plow is why I'm looking for a single bottom trailer plow. MUCH easier to set up (two levers that you adjust, and one quick change when moving from striking out lands to plowing rounds) and they do a MUCH better job, IMHO. Anybody know where I can get one in New England? I have a 1938 Farmall F14 that would really look good turnin' up worms...






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 03-29-2001, 13:50 Post: 26060
Alan L. Lewis



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Do you guys that use the single bottom plow also use a disk later? Do you find you have no use for a tiller? In the old days my grandparents used to plow the garden with a Ford 8N and then disk it. There weren't any 3-point tillers back then don't guess. Their garden was very productive.

Is a tiller a necessity nowadays, or can you get by with the old tillage equipment? Or is the cost of high quality plows close to that of a tiller?






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 03-29-2001, 14:16 Post: 26062
Bird Senter

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Alan, I sometimes use the old turning plow to tear the ground up, and then go over it with the tiller. I don't have a disk. I guess to some extent it would depend on the type of soil as to whether the turning plow and disk could do as good a job as the tiller, but I find the tiller to be essential for my use.






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 03-29-2001, 15:34 Post: 26069
Gerald Pritchett



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My soil is so sandy I don't use a turning plow unless
nothing else will do, too much soil washes away when it
is plowed deep. A tiller is a better weed killer, but a
harrow is faster. I have a large smoothing harrow that
makes it look good no matter what plow I use to break it
up. One other thing I can share with you, a turning plow
will find stuff that will break the planter.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tractor Implements Forum

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