FLYWHEEL BOLT TORQUE: Kubota Review  -- Kubota Tractors Discussion Forum and Review FLYWHEEL BOLT TORQUE: Kubota Review -- Kubota Tractors Discussion Forum

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 10-26-2003, 08:49 Post: 67125
schragsj



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 FLYWHEEL BOLT TORQUE

Can someone please give me the torque spec for the flywheel bolts on an L225DT? Thanks.






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 10-27-2003, 05:50 Post: 67172
TomG

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Sorry I can't help directly. Maybe somebody has a repair manual or maybe a dealer'd be good for one answer.

I did some looking in my Ford repair and parts manuals. There are specific specs for flywheel bolts. Unfortunately my parts manual doesn't say what size bolts are used so I can't check to see if the flywheel specs are the same as specs in a general table by bolt size. However, since separate specs are given, I wouldn't trust torques given in a general table.






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 10-27-2003, 06:23 Post: 67174
Art White

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That one is a one two click on the elbow. We don't have the books for the older Kubota's but normally on the flywheel I would do a torque by the size of the bolt in generic terms tighten it for about all the size will take and have it coated with locktite. Mast manuals have a torque chart as the max that is to be used on the bolt by size.






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 10-27-2003, 06:23 Post: 67175
Art White

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That one is a one two click on the elbow. We don't have the books for the older Kubota's but normally on the flywheel I would do a torque by the size of the bolt in generic terms tighten it for about all the size will take and have it coated with locktite. Mast manuals have a torque chart as the max that is to be used on the bolt by size.






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 10-27-2003, 07:43 Post: 67186
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Thanks for the replies. I was a little nervous to use the standard torque for the size because the bolts have a turned down diameter just below the head. This necked down shank is smaller than the minor diameter of the threads. There are locking plates under the heads to mechanically lock the bolts once tight. Would you still use loctite? Thanks for your opinions.






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 10-27-2003, 07:44 Post: 67187
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I recently sold my L245 parts & shop manuals but if you can give me the size and grade bolt. I can look up the recommended torque on a torque chart for you. Might not be a bad idea to look at applying some thread lock as well. (Locktite Red)






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 10-27-2003, 09:40 Post: 67200
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I'll have to look at the bolts again but I don't remember any grade markings on the head. It seems like they had an "M" in the center. I believe they are 12mm bolts (19mm heads) but as I mentioned before they aren't a standard bolt. I'll look tonight and give you more details. I may even try to post a picture if I'm feeling adventurous. I would like to find shop manuals for this tractor. Any suggestions? Again, thanks for your help.






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 10-27-2003, 10:03 Post: 67204
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 FLYWHEEL BOLT TORQUE

Try calling up Ronnie over on Tractor Smart. He was VERY helpful with questions on my L245. I bet he can get you the info. you are looking for or put you in touch with someone who does.

Please ask for Ronnie Bowman or Todd Miller.

Phone 423-928-0261

Fax 423-928-5791

Modern Equipment Company, Inc.
3003 West Market St.
Johnson City, TN 37604






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 10-28-2003, 05:58 Post: 67311
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Just a couple of random thoughts here. The first is that some types of lock-tight have to be heated to release parts. Probably not an issue but I'd make sure that parts like seals are far enough away that heat could be applied to the bolts without injuring anything that's not metal.

I got factory manuals for my Ford through my NH dealer. They still exist but several month backorders can happen if the publisher is out of stock. My orders didn't take too long and I found the factory manuals much better than after-market ones. They were pricey and the parts manuals included many models but the wait was worth it since I didn't have an immediate problem.

The metric hardware coding for my Ford used a code starting with a 'T' to indicate grade. The general torque table gives the same torque for all grades with the same bolt size and thread. I believe I've seen bolts stamped with 'M' before but I have no information about them. It's good to check this kind of thing out but a good perspective that it isn't quite rocket science.






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 10-28-2003, 12:15 Post: 67353
schragsj



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Thanks for all the opinions. I realize it isn't rocket science and I probably wouldn't have thought twice about it except for the unusual bolt. It doesn't look like someone's first attempt at bolting the flywheel to the crank. It looks like a response to a problem so I'm guessing there's been more than a casual thought to the proper torque. I was wrong about the head markings - there are none. The bolt has a turning center like they were produced in low volume on a lathe. If anyone wants to see it I can email a picture, it's not clear to me how to post an image here. I have a manual on order, I may just hold up on re-assembly till it gets here unless someone can find a value. It is an M12 x 1.25 bolt which isn't in the standards book where I work. Our standards for an M12 x 1 are 77 ft-lbs for a class 8.8 and 105 ft-lbs for a class 10.9. Can someone tell me what a Kubota manual says? Thanks.

TomG brings up a good point about loctite. The red variety does require heat to remove and the rear crank seal rides on the same chunk of metal these bolts thread into. It doesn't seem like you'd want to use anything stronger than blue. I didn't see any sign of a threadlocker on the bolts.

Can anyone tell me why the clutch housing is sealed? Every other dry clutch I've seen has a hole in the bottom of the housing, usually with a cotter pin in it to keep it from plugging. This unit had a transmission input shaft leak and there was about 1/2 quart of fluid in the clutch housing. There is a plug in the bottom of the housing and it seems to me it should be left out so you know if there is a leak instead of making a wet clutch out of a dry one.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Kubota Review Forum

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