Go BottomKubota B7100 4x4 6sp Questions
 | Rick Foster
Join Date: Posts: 1 
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2003-02-10 48994
I bought this tractor with loader, howard tiller, gannon and disc for 5500. After reading a few articles I am not so sure it was a good deal. It is a 3 cylinder diesel that runs well. It puffs blue when first started and only then when throttle change. Is this normal? I used it and could not find fault with it. On the 3 pt hitch, the left ear off of the tranmission is broke, the rod underneath is showing. This rod goes through the hitch assembly and is also connected to a steel brace outside the ear. It looks like cast aluminum seems too white to be cast iron. How do you fix this? I thought to weld a bracket between the hitch and the outer brace. Does not seem to inhibit its use in any way.
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| Rick Foster
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2003-02-10 48995
Also about what year is this tractor? Or what year range did they make the B7100 4x4 stick?
Thanks. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley 
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2003-02-11 49033
If the exhaust were gray rather than blue it'd probably be normal. However, even if it's an oil burner, I wouldn't worry too much as long as the tractor starts and runs OK. High hour oil burners can go on for years that way. I'd change all fluids and filters and then monitor both the engine and hydraulic oil levels.
I don't know the tractor so I can't figure what is broken on the 3ph. New welding materials mean that some pretty amazing repairs can be made, but they can be pricey jobs done at specialty shops. If the break isn't too structural and you have the broken part, something like JB weld might do the trick.
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 | Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
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2003-02-11 49042
That model Kubota goes back to 76' for the beginning of it's production. The little wifs of the blue smoke is not much to get alarmed about how many hours might it have. The hitch, that's different and I didn't really understand which part are you were refering to. We have had to weld on many hitches for assorted reasons it is best to make it as close to original as possible so not to hinder future changes in work. ....
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| Rick Foster
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2003-02-13 49193
Thanks Tom and Art, not sure of the hours, the time meter died at 975, had a small fire in the wires almost penetrated the diesel storage. It runs very well and seems very strong engine wise. It starts on a few crank turns, the glow plug light lens is missing so you can see the wire, it smokes if you hold it more than 10 seconds, the manual say 10-20 seconds or upto 30 if cold. The transmission was 1.5 quarts low and only a very slow dime size drip after 4 days, the hydraulics on the front end loader is different, 1 leak is on the outside of shaft and 1 leak on the chrome shaft. The one was really bad dripping steady and then sort of quick and now only does it when 1st used, but quicks while using and doesn't afterwards either, the other leak only leaks at the chrome shaft. It does not seem to strong, it will pick up the tractor but will not pick up a load of dirt while moving, I have to stop and then lift and or curl the bucket. Is that normal for this size tractor?
The ear I am referring to is the bottom pivot on the bottom 2 3 point hookups where they attach to the transmission. In the middle is the hitch on each side of the hitch are two ears cast on the transmission. Starting from 1 3 pt bottom point a steel rod about 1" or better around starts at this point, then through a small bracket then through transmission ear, then through the hitch, then through the otherside ear, then another small bracket then the farside lower 3 pt. I can't see how it would be strong, it seems more for the bottom pivot to raise and lower the 3 pt hitch.
Thanks again everybody,
Rick ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2003-02-14 49243
Regarding the loader leaks, possibly both leaks are due to seals and they aren't too difficult to replace. There can be problems getting the shafts out of some cylinders without a special tool, and some type seals can be difficult as well. Some cylinders take square edged o-rings, and generic round ones don't work too well.
Sounds like the tractor may be running out of power trying to lift a full bucket while going into a pile. Driving and lifting both take power and the engine may not run both at the same time. It's probably normal. My Ford will do the same thing if I try to pull a full bucket of gravel out of the middle of a pile. My solution was just some time to gain some operating technique around the problem. I ease into a pile curl back and then lift. Good timing seem to manage things.
A loader with larger cylinders would cure the problem but then the loader would work slower, and just putting larger cylinders on may exceed enable operations to exceed some load ratings on the loader or tractor.
The ear thing sounds like anti-sway rods. Most tractors have chains but some use torsion rods. I don't know which 7100's use.
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| Rick Foster
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2003-02-14 49244
The anti-sway thing attach just to the outside of this ear, on a metal bracket that is bolted to the side of the tranny, the outside 3 pt is next to it. My main worry is that the steel shaft will bend, but it seems unlikely, but then again, it must have moved a little or the ear would not have broken off. How tight should those anti-sway bars be? It uses the trunbuckle to tighten with a chain type link on each end. They were quite loose, so I tighten them to snug.
BTW, Where can I get used/new parts for this, being possibly 20+ years old. I might need a rectifier and a wiring harness (melted).
Thanks,
Rick ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2003-02-15 49280
I hope somebody will comment on anti-sway adjustment. I've just been going on 'what seems right.' Actually, my turnbuckles are in pretty bad shape and are hard to adjust. I tightened them once and left them alone since.
My sense is that an implement is supposed to be able to sway some and that some slack is best. Either too much or too little may create load shocks to the cases. The chains usually need to be tightened when a very wide implement is mounted. My forklift is very wide for my tractor. The chains do slack and I would worry about transporting heavy loads at speed on bumpy roads. On the other hand, I don't think it'd be a good idea to hit something on one side on my 'over-wide' box scrapper if the chains were tight.
Kubota should have the electrical parts, and a new wiring harness might be good to get. It's easy enough to make them but it means having a wiring diagram and many spools of different colour coded wire. There's a good chance the rectifier bridge diodes are available from an OEM supplier. The diodes probably have an ID on them (as I recall diodes have codes such as '1Nnnnnnnnn'. A local electronic parts store might even have them in stock, but there are huge catalogues of ID numbers and manufacturers. An auto-electric shop might be able to rebuild it.
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| GREG B.
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2004-03-22 80779
What wood chipper do you use with a Kubota B7100? Price range & how well does it work? ....
Link: Wood chipper for Kubota B1700
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 | beagle
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1333 Michigan 
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2004-03-23 80879
According the my owners manual, the stabilizers should be loose for plow work, and should be tightened for rear blade and rear mower applicatons. They define tightened as "to prevent excessive movement when implement is in the raised position. For implements with guage wheels, lower the implements to the ground". I believe common sense and feel are probably a good guide in most situations. The idea is to not overstress any of the working points of the hitch. Tightening to the point of pre-stressing would be a bad thing for sure, and common sense would prevent this from ever happening. ....
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